Thanksgiving: Koh Chang style

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As we described in our last post, the PAD protesters’ occupation of the airports forced us to abandon our plans of flying down to the famous beaches in the south of Thailand, leading us to instead choose an overland trip to Koh Chang. This island is a five hour bus ride from Bangkok, followed by a 45 minute ferry ride. We left late morning, and were there by dusk.

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View from the ferry to Koh Chang

We arrived without accommodation, but knew that we wanted to stay somewhere along White Sand Beach on the west coast of the island. After taking a songthew to the center of the hotel strip along the beach and walking door-to-door checking out places, we finally settled on this beach-front spot:

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White Sands Beach in front of our hotel

We spent the next four days relaxing. Each morning, we settled down on two beach chairs right between the hotel pool and the beach, and spent the rest of the day reading and taking dips in the water. Around dusk, we continued our South African tradition of enjoying a sundowner cocktail.

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Sundowner, White Sands Beach

Our second night in Koh Chang happened to fall on Thanksgiving and also became one of the most memorable nights of our trip. After a beachside sundowner (photo above), I decided it was the right moment to ask Abby a rather serious question. After getting our bill, we walked out onto a small island that had formed as the tidal waters receded. It was here that I asked her to marry me and was delighted when she said “yes”.

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Two people that just got engaged on the beach!

We went out for a celebratory (and Thanksgiving) dinner at Ton Sai, which is a fantastic restaurant perched up in a banyan tree. We had yellow curry, phad thai, and minced pork cakes while we thought about all that we are thankful for and how excited we are for the future.

We spent the rest of our trip relaxing, only leaving White Sand Beach once to visit “Lonely Beach,” which is a less developed part of the island further south. This area has more of a backpacker feel with a bunch of cheap bungalows, bars, and restaurants.

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Lonely Beach

Another highlight of our excursion to Lonely Beach was this sighting of a mother and daughter monkey pair traversing the power lines:

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Making it work

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We returned to Bangkok from Phnom Penh on a flight that arrived at Suvarnabhumi Airport around 6p.m. on November 24. Little did we know that approximately 24 hours later, that airport would be overwhelmed by protesters and shut down entirely to inbound and outbound flights. (Read more here.) Had we returned one day later, we would have been caught in the craziness of the airport takeover. Two days later and we would have been stuck in Phnom Penh. So when we first heard the news, we were feeling pretty lucky about the timing of our travel arrangements. The only remaining problem: we had already purchased round-trip tickets to Krabi in and out of Bangkok that departed on the 26th.

We soon realized there was no way we would be flying to Krabi (which was to be our jumping-off point to the island of Ko Phi Phi), so we channeled Tim Gunn and set about making it work. After consulting our guidebooks and the recommendations of an old friend, we picked Koh Chang as our alternate beach destination. Koh Chang is a beautiful island on the Eastern Gulf Coast of Thailand, and most important, is accessible by ferry from a town that is accessible by bus from Bangkok. So, one five-hour bus ride, 45-minute ferry ride, and 30-minute songthiew ride later, we settled into our beach-front hotel and never looked back. (More on Koh Chang to follow in our next blog entry.)

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Koh Chang

When we first restructured our beach plans, we thought there was no way the protest would still be underway one week later when we were scheduled to fly to Hong Kong. How could Bangkok’s main transit hub possibly be out of commission for that long? Slowly but surely, however, we realized the protest showed no sign of ending and we needed to figure out a back-up plan for leaving Thailand. So that’s what we did yesterday. Luckily we were booked on Thai Airways and they have been doing everything they can to accommodate inconvenienced travelers. After a visit to the downtown Thai Airways office, we left with stand-by bookings on three different “evacuation” flights that were departing from a naval airport about 90 miles from Bangkok, as well as confirmed seats on a December 6 flight that was departing from BKK’s main airport. By the end of the day, a constitutional court had ruled that Prime Minister Somchai Wongsawat was banned from politics for five years, which appeased the protesting PAD party and led to their announcement that they would leave the airports by Wednesday, December 3.

So, long story short, we have confirmed seats on a December 6 flight to Hong Kong and it appears that we will be able to fly out of the main international airport. Our time in Hong Kong is thereby shortened from four days to one day, but we’re determined to make it dim-sum-packed! We feel quite lucky compared to all of the other travelers who have been struggling to return to jobs or families back home, as well as all of the Thai merchants and businesses that rely so heavily on the tourism industry. We will be sad to leave Bangkok and Thailand as a whole. We’ve had a wonderful time here and would recommend a visit to anyone.